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cannabis flowering too early

12-12 From Seed – Flowering Plants Early

The term “12-12” means you’re giving your cannabis plants 12 hours of darkness, and 12 hours of light every day. “12-12 from seed” mean you’re giving a cannabis plant a 12-12 light schedule from a very young age to force it to flower early (make buds).

Some growers are attracted to the idea of 12-12 from seed, because it means that harvest will come sooner. How long does it take to grow a plant from seed to harvest?

But does the 12-12 from seed technique work to give you a faster harvest, and if so, what are the results?

I have changed cannabis plants over to the flowering stage from seed, but no matter what the light schedule, plants don’t start flowering (making buds) until they are about 3 weeks old. Initiating a 12-12 light schedule at 3 weeks old from seed is as early as I’d recommend for this technique, if you choose to use it.

“12-12 From Seed” is a misnomer if you’re trying to force your cannabis to flower early – 3 weeks from seed is the earliest time a plant can start flowering after the switch to 12-12

Make sure to let your young marijuana plants get a minimum 2-3 weeks in the vegetative stage before changing them over to flowering. Your plants will be healthier and will start flowering at the same time as if you started 12-12 from when they first sprout.

Giving a 12-12 shedule when a cannabis plant is younger than that will not work to make the cannabis start flowering – a cannabis plant will only grow vegetatively for the first few weeks of life, and giving them less light will only cause them to grow more slowly.

Some strains of cannabis will naturally start flowering after about 3 weeks, and you don’t need to do anything with light schedules to cause that to happen. These strains are known as “autoflowering” or “Ruderalis” strains.

Many Growers Who Want To Force Cannabis Plants to Flower at a Young Age May Be Interested in Auto-Flowering Strains – No Need for 12-12 and Often Much Better Yields!

I have grown a few plants from seed to harvest just in a solo cup container. I was able to do this by flowering a plant from a young age – giving the plant 12-12 lighting when it was only 3 weeks old (pictured here).

These solo cup plants were able to survive their entire lives in a small container. I wouldn’t recommend a solo cup because they tip over easily, and plants are prone to nutrient and root problems once the flowering stage begins (the root space is just way too small, even when doing 12-12 from seed or using an auto-flowering stage).

But it’s possible.

The downsides… When your cannabis is kept in a too-small container, you will notice that you have to water your plant much more often than if you kept your plant in a big pot. As time goes on, plants are also more likely to suffer from nutrient problems and root problems because the roots aren’t being give enough room to spread out. When plants become root-bound this way, there’s not much you can do about this besides transplanting your plants into a bigger container.

While I wouldn’t recommend 12-12 from seed, and no longer ever use this technique myself, there are growers who are going to do it anyway.

For those growers who still want to use 12-12 from seed despite the warnings here…

If you are set on keeping potted cannabis plants in small containers for their whole lives, the smallest container you should try is a 1-gallon or 2-gallon container, like the pots pictured here.

Keeping plants in tiny containers may be important when growing in a very space-limited grow space, such as growing in a space bucket for stealth reasons.

There are powerful cannabis growth control techniques that will also allow you to grow high-producing plants, while keeping them short.

But like this extreme girl to the right (less than a foot tall and grown under CFLs), I’ve experimented starting the plants on 12/12 from seed to keep plants REALLY small.

When forcing your cannabis to flower early, plants will stay small and spend almost all their energy on producing flowers/buds on what few stems they have, instead of growing tall or making more colas/nodes.

Some people say that cannabis that is forced to flower too early will not make any buds, but that’s not true. The plant pictured here produced 0.75 ounces of bud after drying. So while 12-12 from seed may not be optimal, it does work.

The problems I’ve had with forcing cannabis to flower early is that since the plant is much smaller, you get smaller yields, but you’re still basically spending about the same amount of time to grow the plant as if you’d grown it bigger.

Compared to 12-12 from seed, growing an auto-flowering strain will generally give you bigger yields for the time, and will be less trouble

With such small plants, you don’t have the time to train your plant, which gives you much greater control over the final shape and size of your plant, improving yields without adding much time.

The other disadvantage to overly small plants is their inability to recover well from problems: you have fewer leaves as a ‘buffer’ so the plant can’t bounce back when something goes wrong such as a pest attack. In a too-small container, as roots get more root-bound, cannabis plants have a harder time using nutrients efficiently, and may start showing nutrient problems.

Growing extremely tiny marijuana plants is fun, but honestly you’ll get the biggest yields by instead investing a little more time in the vegetative stage to train your plant to grow into the exact shape you want. Or just grow an auto-flowering strain.

Auto-Flowering Strains – A better way to force plants to flower early

Plant Training Techniques – Make your plants grow how you want

Learn About Grow Lights – Which is best for your setup?

Learn what it means to give your plants "12-12 from seed" to force them to start making buds early.

Help with ideas for a “too early flowering outdoor plant”

MerryJane22

Hi all. so this is my very first grow and it’s been a ride thus far. I intended to simply grow a batch of auto flowers but out of nowhere was given a 7 week old Space Ghost from a friend with a crammed tent. She is now outside, 10 weeks old and flowering already .

SORRY FOR LENGTH, not sure what is needed to figure this out

Plant was a clone grown indoors under 20/4 for 7 weeks until given to me. My grow box was designed for starting seedlings, so she had to be repotted and sent outdoors (and was outgrowing her one gallon pot anyway). I put her in live organic soil and dusted the rootball with mycorrhiza. I don’t add additional nutrients. After watering her run off is consistently 6.25. Lately I have to water daily (very very hot here this week—high 80’s). Colder at night more on that soon.

Her life began March 27th

*Indoors 20/4 until 7 weeks and arrived here

*I allowed a little acclimation time and then repotted 4 days later.

*I brought her (and the other autos) in at night for about a week due to freezing temps (Michigan can suck)

*Outside she has thrived and has doubled or tripled in size since then.

*Nights got very cold the week before last again and instead of hauling in, I covered the fenced in area with tarps for about 5 days.
From 9pm to 7am (so she still got 14 hrs light).

*I am hardening off a new batch of autos and getting them used to being outside in the dark (have been in 24 hours of light until last week)
so I set an alarm and each night leave them out longer. BUT. I turned on my porch light (one regular light bulb) so I could see in the fenced area to retrieve them. It was on
only 5 minutes the last 3 nights.

* I noticed the flowering begin on June 15th (before the lights but after the tarp period).

So. I read that Space Ghost requires 9-10 weeks to fully blossom. I have no idea if she just wants to do this on her own, or if I inadvertently caused it with the tarp/and or minimal light?

At first I was pretty upset, as I was excited to see how crazy she may be since she just took off like a rocket. She has over 30 nice bud sites right now. But then I got to really thinking about it. maybe an early harvest WOULD be ok? October and November can be really sketchy here (hell, so can September !).

My main question is two pronged. did I do this myself by accident? and secondly, if I did. how can I make sure she doesn’t re-vegetate? I’d like to simply let her finish. That way she’d be done at the same time as my last batch of autos and I can leave the house on a trip (I’d cancelled thinking I’d have to babysit her).

Since this flowering happened during 15+ days of daylight (14 on the tarp nights) should I feel safe just letting nature go, or to be extra safe should I cover her with something to ensure she gets closer to 12 hours of darkness?

I’d hate to have her re-veg and then have to harvest in the frost. or something equally crappy. See, these climate frustrations are why I chose to use autos for my first grow.

And lastly. since I’m growing all organically. is there something I could give her to augment the bloom phase instead of chemicals? do I actually need to?

THANK YOU, THANK YOU for any and all insight .

This is how she looks right now :

chemistry
MerryJane22

Yeah, here too. 15:23 minutes daylight right now. worried she may stop ‘being confused’ and revert back to veg. I guess if that does happen, so be it? I’ll just tackle the usual challenges of a Michigan fall harvest?

Also. I just read that harvesting MJ in the summer could be a bad choice as the buds can get airy and foxtail? that would be a big bummer.

Maybe I ought to craft a way to cover her and insure she gets the full 12 hours of dark? hmmmm. being a beginner isn’t my strong suit

Thanks you guys.

MerryJane22
MHippie

I’d like the teach the world to smoke
In perfect harmony.
I’d like to grow the world a plant
To keep it company.

That’s the song I sing 🙂​

MerryJane22

Nah, she’s a regular photo plant. That said, the strain information on her sounds AMAZING (I’m a big indica lover). Couch lock is my favorite

But I have an additional (or will when the rest of the seedlings are out there for good) 15 fem auto flowers the big girl will be hanging out with. I’d have to drive the plant very far away to let it finish to collect those seeds. But gosh, you can’t buy these seeds

MerryJane22

Me too. That’s my preference . I specifically chose autos my first go round so I could avoid worrying about hauling a giant tree around to avoid frosty nights (and maybe even snow). An early harvest wasn’t something I even contemplated. but it would be brilliant. I’m debating covering her, looking for a good way now.

I’m thinking that my issue could be 3 pronged (adding in case someone else sees this and has the same issue):

#1) She is a clone, maybe her mom was flowering? (I will ask the fellow as soon as I see him) he just handed it to me with zero instruction.
#2) She had those long 20/4 lights her whole 7 weeks before I got her
#3) There is something called ‘bolting’ that happens when plants experience drastic weather. She was protected from most of it, but not all. It got super cold—-then really hot (but cold at night) then super hot again.

Could be ALL of those combined?

MHippie

Nah, she’s a regular photo plant. That said, the strain information on her sounds AMAZING (I’m a big indica lover). Couch lock is my favorite

But I have an additional (or will when the rest of the seedlings are out there for good) 15 fem auto flowers the big girl will be hanging out with. I’d have to drive the plant very far away to let it finish to collect those seeds. But gosh, you can’t buy these seeds

MerryJane22
MHippie
MerryJane22

No, not yet. The bonsai I’m thinking may have to do with training and pruning? the only thing I’ve done in that area is LST. I did that with this Space Ghost and my newer autos (wish I’d have done it with the original batch of 9 I have as they are literally twigs. The newer ones will be bushy.

If all goes well and she keeps flowering I guess I’ll have to learn more about the things you mentioned. she has lots of bud sites that are semi-shaded by her fan leaves. I’ve done some “leaf tucking” to get them more exposed. but that’s it.

MHippie

No, not yet. The bonsai I’m thinking may have to do with training and pruning? the only thing I’ve done in that area is LST. I did that with this Space Ghost and my newer autos (wish I’d have done it with the original batch of 9 I have as they are literally twigs. The newer ones will be bushy.

If all goes well and she keeps flowering I guess I’ll have to learn more about the things you mentioned. she has lots of bud sites that are semi-shaded by her fan leaves. I’ve done some “leaf tucking” to get them more exposed. but that’s it.

I was hoping this forum would be fun lol 🙂 I had a VERY cool guy take me under his wing about 25 years ago. He didn’t sell anything. Guess that’s where I got it from. Anyway. there is a strain called Pineapple Express. The suck thing about it is it grows really tall. But that’s all that sucks 🙂 The pic attached is what I do for tall plants that I don’t want to go tall, but don’t want to totally bush out either. And. it’s LST which is part of the bonsai thing. Again everything i do is WAY old school. Bailing twine and s hooks twisted out of bonsai wire lol :))))) On a Sativa, I’ll keep moving those strings out each week until the entire branch is both woody and straight as hell. That forces the growth shoots to grow straight up, gets plenty of light to the inner branches, and produces WAY tight large nugs. Then you don’t have to worry about repositioning fan leaves and snipping and cutting energy producers.

Additionally, the top main growth shoot has been cut. I’m allowing the top to grow into two shoots and then they’ll get the LST treatment too. The bottom 2 nodes which are not in an LST mode are being allowed to grow for clones. The end result if I flowered this one would be six 2 branch nodes or 12 in total with between 6 and 9 big ass nugs per branch. All of the main branches will be straight out with only the growth tips being allowed to point up at the end. (Nugs get REALLY big there)

Also if this one was going to flower, it would be transplanted in 10 gallon grow bag.

But because it is a momma plant. the pot the plant is in is only 6 inches tall. Root binding produces a SHIT TON of issues in cannabis. Enter. bonsai methods 🙂 Root trimming can be scary until you get used to it. But here’s how it works. When you think the plant has maxed out its pot, gently work the plant loose from the pot and check out the roots. If they are all around the sides and very thick, then you are root bound or close to it. Easiest way to fix it is to get a steak knife and wipe it down with an alcohol wipe. Take the plant and put it on a hard smooth surface. Working top to bottom, cut off 1/4 inch of soil and roots straight down. Do this on all 4 sides. Then cut a 1/2 inch to an inch off the bottom. Fill the bottom of the same pot with good soil about an inch deep. Put the plant back in and then new dirt around all sides and an inch up on the top or more if it will fit. Any pruning that needs to be done, do it at that time. Water it with just clear water. It will get its nutrients from the fresh soil for the next week or so that it is recovering. Now you have the beginning of a momma clone machine.

Hi all…..so this is my very first grow and it's been a ride thus far. I intended to simply grow a batch of auto flowers but out of nowhere was given a 7…